Wednesday, July 23, 2025

Folk ways

I love when things line up in unplanned ways. Two great alignments today, which started in the museum of traditional costumes of Ansó, the village in the Pirineo Aragonés where we're staying. The dress for special occasions was the most interesting (the pic above shows stages from children's baptism - the one suspended in the air - through first communion, gender undifferentiated still at confirmation) but I was glad we paid attention also to work clothes, amazed at the stiff leather mocassins the men tied around thick woolen socks to work the fields, forests and pastures, and the spindles women used working wool. 

One alignment came at dinner, when our local wine - a Pyrennean kind called Somantana - turned out to be named after those very worker's shoes. Vintner Otto Bestué chose this name for one of his better wines, the label explains, because the workers in the vineyards his family has worked since the 17th century used to shake their sandals at the end of a work day to get the soil off. To them perhaps dirt but to him every grain of this land is precious! (The wine was delicious.)

The other alignment was more unexpected. At San Juan de la Peña, an ancient monastery built into a huge cliff of fist-sized conglomerate stone, we marveled at the (reconstructed) free-standing 12th century cloister. When the monks left this monastery for a big new one on the top of the hill after a fire in the 17th century, locals made off with many of the stones of the old monastery but not the capitals, which survive.

Among the motifs, a scene of Adam and Eve after the fall, Adam tilling the soil with two oxen and Eve making wool yarn with a spindle!