I described how relieved I was to find that, just across the Ganges from Varanasi, India life went on untroubled and undistorted by tourism.
But I don't think I mentioned that my friend and I went past Ramnagar fort and palace, with its wonky museum, to see an 18th century Durga temple. Here's what it looked like. I also didn't mention that when we crossed back over the river we saw some interesting birds - in the sky and on a post by the shore (a kingfisher!).