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The apartment is bigger than I dared remember, the garden too, and lusher - and easier to take care of than I dared hope. And the place is mine, all mine, until November - my housemate doesn't move in until then. So September and October are the time to come visit! You'll have a private room, though possibly still unfurnished.
The best part is that I feel the present tenants P and A are friends - good friends of good Australian friends - and, since they're chummy with the landlady, I got to meet her like an old friend, too. Very nice. And then P and A and I went to dinner at a pizzeria nearby, where I not only had a delicious (and cheap) prosciutto and fig pizza, but F, one of my colleagues from school whom I didn't know lived in the neighborhood, walked in. Even better than finding I already know half the neighborhood, entrepreneurial P pointed out, is that I was able to advise F on the menu - a place he hadn't been in before.
I actually move on Sunday, and will then post you a picture of the place. But for now I'm feeling at home in the world!