A full day in Delhi, visiting an old friend - the 800 year old Qutub Minar, built at the establish- ment of Muslim rule - and the temples of two 19th century religions: Akshardam, the Swaminarayan sect's theme park-like fantasy of a Vedic India (no cameras allowed), and the Baha'i's friendlier international style Lotus Temple (yes, that's the sun). Tomorrow I head for the hills!