My travels are nearly over... but not quite. I'm spending the long weekend (Monday is the Dragon Boat Festival) at a queer Christian retreat at Sheshan, Shanghai's holy mount. And I hope to touch base again with Nanjing... I'd pledged to myself a return visit to its museum, and now that I've imbibed the north's ancient claims to true Chineseness it might be good to give a south older than Shanghai a chance to reply.