We stayed (first time with Airbnb) in a very artistically converted back room/yard of an old housing complex on 巨鹿路 Julu Street in the former French Concession and I found I didn't need to take the subway at all. Within walking distance, often on our very block, were the Japanese restaurant we went to Friday night, Saturday's fancy noodle
and Yunnan specialty restaurants and Sunday's Sichuan sizzle (below), as well as the Catholic church I attended Sunday morning. A short walk away were an Australian bakery cafe, an English language bookstore - and even a Starbucks. I only hopped on the subway to have a dutiful look at the skyline and soon fled the crowds back to our leafy village!