Thursday, June 24, 2021

On Indian land

We're staying a few days at an Airbnb in Lompoc, not a place I've been before or know anything about. Our host, a retired local high school teacher, filled us in on some its history, and directed us to a mute memorial to the destruction of most of its first peoples, the Chumash. The Franciscan Purisima Concepcion mission was built here in the 1780s, rebuilt after an earthquake in 1812. Secularized in the 1830s and gradually abandoned, it was reconstructed by  
the CCC in the 1930s. It's now run as a State Park, and its museum tells a truer tale of the colonial destruction of indigenous worlds in "Old California" than most of the missions. It still struggles against the romantic myth of the missions, though; if you didn't read to the end of the interpretive panels, like these below, you might not notice how everything ended in death for Chumash culture - and people.
I grew up - in San Diego, site of the first of the 21 Alta California missions - with a sanitized version of the story, Junipero Serra an at once gentle and heroic precursor to to my own presence as a European settler in this land. It is heart-rending to confront the reality... especially on a day when hundreds more First Peoples graves have been found near a residential school in Canada, all part of the same genocidal program to "Kill the Indian, Save the Man." 
The town of Lompoc has sponsored many public murals, one of which celebrated the old story, conjuring up the 1787 original mission with converts, heads bowed, around a cross. On the empty lot in front of it, someone, perhaps Chumash, has erected a statue, mourning.